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Drought Conditions Warning

Timely warning seen on facebook this morning regarding safety of horses (and stock in general) during drought conditions.

It’s really easy for them to go into boggy dams and waterways in search of moisture and the little bit of green feed that may be surviving closest to the last water sources and get stuck. Not all survive!

Drought Conditions
Safety Around Water is needed in Drought Conditions

Some of the muddy holes are especially sticky, particularly if you are on black soil. The bottom of most dams will be clay to seal the water in, and this gets extremely sticky for all animals.

SAFETY NOTE

Fence your animals out of the area and provide water in tubs. If they are already weaker from a lower food intake, then it doesn’t take much to get stuck.

If you have a horse that gets stuck like these ones, call your local SES, Emergency Services, or RSPCA for help to get them out.

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Eating Dirt and Sand

Horses naturally eat quite a bit of soil. Under normal circumstances there is sufficient fibre moving through their gut to move the sand and dirt through their gut and out in their manure… so normally it won’t accumulate too much. During drought however, due to grazing very close to virtually bare ground the amount of soil they eat increases, while often the amount of fibre they have to eat is reduced. So drought is a double whammy… more sand and dirt in their gut and less fibre to carry it through. This situation often results in accumulation of sand and dirt, which can cause irritation of the gastrointestinal tract and result in colic or diarrhoea.

A simple home test for the level of sand is the glove test. Using big clear gloves (vet rectal exam gloves are good), put several lumps of manure in the glove with plenty of water. Massage the glove until the manure is all broken up, then hang the glove to allow it to settle. Check the fingers of the glove to see how much sand falls to the bottom. If you don’t have gloves, you can do the same with a clear plastic bag, tipping it so one corner is at the bottom when leaving it to settle.
If there’s less than 1 teaspoon in total then generally there’s no need for concern. If more than that, do another test in a couple of days to confirm the results, then check with your vet if you need to take additional action.

The best way to clear sand and dirt from a horse’s gut is to feed lots and lots of hay. During a drought this isn’t always possible as hay supplies get shorter and shorter. An alternative and also quite effective way of clearing it is to feed psyllium husk. Psyllium husk is a fibre that absorbs water in the gut and turns into a really sticky goo that will stick to the sand and dirt and move it out of the gut.
Epsom salts will increase the cleaning action by attracting even more water to the intestines as it passes through.

We found an interesting research paper here showing significant sand and dirt accumulation being successfully shifted in 4 days using a combination of psyllium husk and Epsom salts. The action of the 2 together appeared to be significantly better than either by themselves. Care needs to be taken though to limit the use of Epsom salts to short periods as it can have an irritant effect on the gut with prolonged use.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1090023318302648?via%3Dihub&fbclid=IwAR1nkpdKa7Klyfw1OG81oj3Ai0V-yKp5EKvgdA9vfuFWsyTifuLmNVjjwnc

The study was primarily testing with nasogastric tubing however does state that previous studies have shown there didn’t appear to be a significant difference in effect between tubing or feeding. Recommended feeding rate from our vet is 50 grams per 100 kg of bodyweight of psyllium husk and 10g per 100kg of Epsom salts per day, for maximum 5 days at a time.

Feed it in a single meal, for 5 days in a row, mixed with something your horse loves the taste of. Make the feed very slightly damp then put in the psyllium and Epsom salts and mix it around. Don’t make it too wet as many horses don’t like the taste and/or texture of wet psyllium. If your horse was showing signs of sand or dirt accumulation (mild colic or diarrhoea), give the horse a break for 5 days and then repeat the 5 day treatment.

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Healing Ointment for a Hoof Wound

Frantic Call for Help

We got a call for help following a paddock incident that resulted in this wound.

There had been wet weather and the only thing that could be guessed is that the horse had been galloping and hit something hidden in the mud that has sliced off the back quarter of the hoof.

This was on the third day, after the vet had been and cut off the excess, and left it bandaged.

The wound was dirty, unhealthy tissue was forming, and the black areas indicate dead tissue which was at risk of becoming infected.

We supplied a tub of Golden Honey Healing Ointment, with instructions for use.  By the next bandage change at 6 days, there was already a significant improvement.

The wound bed was clean, all the dead and dying tissue was cleaned out, and good healthy tissue was starting to grow in the bottom of the hole.

The lovely pink colour indicates good blood flow with healthy hoof tissue regrowing.

Even better news this horse was able to successfully compete 6 weeks later in the next dressage competition heats he was entered for.

Due to the strong tissue integrity of the new growth that refilled the hole he finished his tests sound.

Watch the video below to see the progress of the wound during the healing process.

 

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Colloidal Silver Eye Wash

When you spot the swollen eye on your horse, and your heart sinks as you wonder what they have done, this is an effective and gentle way to clean and soothe the eye as you assess what needs to be done next.

This is the simplest method we’ve found to bathe the eye.

A step ladder can be useful during this process for taller horses, or ones that like to have their heads up in the air. A helper to hold the horses head can also be useful.

Wash hands well to disinfect, then do a final rinse with a little Colloidal Silver before touching the eye.

Dribble a little silver into the cup of the hand that best fits to the eye to be flushed and gently touch under and around the eye to make the surface wet. This may need to be repeated several times until the horse realises that it’s not going to hurt.

Then leave the hand in place cupped around the eye and start to fill the cup of the hand as full as possible to provide a “bath” of liquid that covers the eye socket. Hold for as long as possible, then let drain away. Refill the cupped hand and drain several times.

During this time, the horse will blink a number of times, allowing the Colloidal Silver to coat the eye, and flush out any debris that may be causing irritation. The eye socket will also have been soaked nicely with the silver which will begin to reduce the inflammation.

It’s recommended to put a dark mesh fly veil on once the flush is complete to keep out as much dust as possible. It’s also possible that the swollen eye will be sensitive to the sunlight, so the dark mesh will help give relief from this.

Note: If there is clear damage to the eye, then it’s important to call your vet immediately.

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How to Make a Saline Solution

Normal saline is a sterile mixture of salt and water. It is called normal because its salt concentration is similar to tears, blood, and other body fluids (0.9% saline). It is also called isotonic solution. Normal saline is soothing and unlike straight water, will not burn or sting when applied.

How to make normal saline solution at home 

Saline solution is easy to make at home. You will need:

  • 1 clean glass bottle or jar with lid
  • table salt
  • pot with lid
  1. Put two cups of water and 1 teaspoon of salt into the pot. Put the lid on.
  2. Boil for 15 minutes with the lid on (set a timer).
  3. Set the pan aside until cooled to a room temperature.
  4. Carefully pour the salt and water (normal saline) from the pan into the jar or bottle and put the lid on.

Normal saline solution: A few important points

  • It is very important to use only fresh normal saline. Bacteria can grow in saline and cause infections
  • Use a clean glass jar or bottle is that has been recently washed in a dishwasher with very hot soapy water
  • Do not drink solution
  • Throw away the solution if it grows cloudy or looks dirty
  • Keep the saline in a bottle or a glass for a maximum of 24 hours. Throw away any unused solution, wash the container, and make a new solution.

 

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Hoof Balance

A good step to begin with when doing hoof trimming is identifying hoof balance. What is a balanced hoof? A balanced hoof is a ‘natural hoof’ or a hoof that is trimmed to replicate the form of a natural hoof. What is a natural hoof? This is the hoof that you usually see on wild horses. These horses tend to have balanced hooves as they have a free roaming life style.

A balanced hoof has a hoof wall that supports not only the foot but also the entire body of the horse. The only part of the hoof that touches the ground is the ‘hoof wall’. In a balanced hoof, the frog area has the passive contact with the floor and the sole does not touch the floor.

 Hoof Balance

A good point to ponder is from Jaime Jackson sharing “A balanced hoof is one whose size, shape, and proportion correspond precisely to its own unique, natural conformation.”

A Balanced Hoof:

  • With its relationship with the coffin bone, a balanced hoof can provide balance to your horse’s skeleton system.
  • It provides traction during the pull of the front hoof and push of the hind hoof.
  • It services as a shock absorber by expanding and contracting.
  • Pumps blood out of the foot when expanding and contracting.
  • Promotes proper stride break over.

What to Look For?

Look at the hoof wall from its side view (see figure 2), and see if the angle of growth of the front hairline is similar with the angle of growth with the tip of the toe. Think of the angle of growth as a line and no matter what the line’s angle is, it should be a straight line. If there are changes in that straight line or a different angle is created then it is an indication that something not right is taking place.

Potential Indicators of Hoof Imbalance

1. Bruise or soreness around the toe wall – Any soreness or redness around the toe should tell you that something is wrong. There are other factors that can cause this problem, but for now consider hoof imbalance as the main factor. This is often just a minor issue that can be cured using regular hoof care and hoof balance methods so do not go into major methods right away such as shoes or invasive trimming methods.

4. Unnatural Hoof Wall Wear Patterns – Generally, a naturally balanced hoof will possess 3 or 4 points of positive contact with the floor. Two of these points in contact are located at the heal buttresses and the rest of the points in contact will be at or close to the toe. These points of contact are the most active when it comes to growth. As these points get the most floor contact, they wear faster yet grows faster compared to areas that only have passive ground contact.

3. Growth Lines’ Deviation – The Hoof Wall’s Growth Lines Need to Be Perpendicular to the Floor.  Any deviation of the growth lines is an indication of hoof imbalance or abnormal growth. The deviation can be a result from improper trimming or shoeing methods and unnatural wearing conditions.

2. Elevated Heel – The horse’s heel is directly proportional with the angle of growth. Heels that are too high, incorrectly trimmed or on the shod horse will have a negative effect on the natural angle of growth of hooves. The heels need to be maintained short so the frog will have passive contact with the ground.

Frogs that are uneven and narrow tend to become rubbery and damp near the sole which is why frogs need to be kept flat and wide. The frog should only passively touch the ground and not have the full pressure against it. The frog is a sensitive area and it helps your horse know where on the ground its hooves are with just a minor contact. Properly trimming the heels will allow the frog to wear naturally and maintain the right sensitivity.

A good way to evaluate the horse’s balance is to observe how it moves on its own or without a rider. It is hard to clearly see the imbalance if someone is riding the horse especially if that someone is a novice and is the main cause of the struggle. A horse with a naturally balanced hoof will move naturally, freely and swiftly.

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Foal Hoof Care: When To Get Help

New Born Foals When to Trim?Many horse owners are curious about the right time for their foal’s first trim. Many believe that hoof care is necessary when the foal is a year old or is starting with its riding training. If you are concerned about the welfare of your foal then waiting a year is a big NO. As hooves get long, break or wear unevenly or not break and wear at all, they can potentially cause leg strain and deviation.

The more your foal matures the more difficult the corrections will be since as it matures, its bones continue to harden and joints formalize. ALL counteractive efforts and trimming to maintain the right shape and function of the leg should be done before your foal reaches a year old.

In fact, the first trim should be at your foul’s 3 to 4 weeks of age considering its legs are fairly normal and straight. If required, early corrections should be implemented to make big adjustments when it comes to correcting a deviated bone column. As majority of foals are born with several deviations, early corrections can help increase success of corrective trimming efforts.

The right hoof trimming can modify and improve minor deviations as well as maintain the right leg structure for foals born with averagely correct legs and hooves. Conversely, neglecting proper trimming can increase deviations to foals with only minor leg deviations and even to foals born with correctly structured legs.

Foals that are born with major leg and hoof deviations will take more than early hoof trimming methods for their deviations to subside. These foals may need surgery or attention from a veterinarian.

What to look for in a “normal” hoof

A freshly born foal will have front hooves that are fairly pointed. The pointy hooves on the front feet help in the positioning and delivery through the birth canal. In addition, they help rip off the placenta during delivery.

The pointed feet become useless after the foal is born. The pointed hoof prevents the foal from breaking directly over the front of the hoof. This complicates the flight path of the foal allowing it to become toed in (pigeon toed) or toed out (splay footed) (See Image Below). Neglecting this issue will allow further wear during break-over thus resulting to more deviations in the future.

Hoof Care Balance and Angles in Foal TrimmingThe ultimate aim of the first trim is to provide a straight break over point on the hoof. This technique will prevent any inward or outward deviation in the leg structure as well as movement pattern. This corrects and reduces additional deviation in the future. The proper first trim can supply a straight and simple break over point for the stride. This fixes minor deviations and provides a straight path for foals having already correct feet and legs needed for maintaining the right bone structure.

Trimming regularly every three to four weeks after the first trim will allow the solidification of the bony column in as correct and straight a line as possible. Remember to start the first trim earlier before your foal is a year old and practice the method throughout the life of your horse to improve its performance and function.

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How Often Should My Horse See the Farrier for Trimming?

FarrierTrimingHoof

All domestic horses require having complete, regular hoof care. Hooves that are unmaintained will result to unpleasant looking and unbalanced hooves which in turn affects the hoof’s internal workings, legs’ tendons and ligaments and mainly the horse’s movement.

So how often should your horse see the farrier for trimming?

It will depend on your horse’s activities as well as the type of riding you do. Generally, most horses should get trimming every eight weeks.

There are horses that require a more frequent farrier visit such as those used for competition. This is because horses used for competition require to have completely balanced feet to ensure they compete at their maximum capability. In addition, having your horse adequately trimmed can reduce risk of injury.

Unshod horses can require regular trimming depending on the surfaces they walk on. These horses can need to be trimmed about three to six weeks as the soft surfaces that these horses walk on do not cause any wear on their hoofs.

Horses that walk on abrasive surfaces wear their feet down more so they tend to need less frequent trimmings. Although this is the case, these horses still require regular trimming in order to maintain the right hoof shape.

The hoofs of ponies and hacks can be left a longer as these horses are ridden only a few times in a week and will have a wear chance that is close to their hoofs’ growth rate. Mostly, they only need some minor trims just to clean their hoofs’ ragged edges.

Horses having fewer activities and not used for riding should not be exempted from trimming. Horses that fall in this category such as brood mares and retired horses still have hoofs that continue to grow as well as have a wear rate that is very low. This is why these horses also require frequent farrier visits.

What To Look For In A Farrier?

To ensure the well being of both you and your horse, you need to choose a certified, professional and experienced farrier. A farrier is someone who is skilled is various hoof cares such as horse shoeing, blacksmithing as well as knowledgeable about the physiology and anatomy of horses’ legs and feet. An unskilled farrier can expose your horse to risk such as injury, lameness and damage which is why it is best you choose a certified farrier.

Certification and training

Certified farriers have acquired extensive trainings, completed standardized and veterinary related exams as well as proved they possess the needed skills required in the farrier profession. As there are no laws that farriers should first be certified, it is your duty to determine if your farrier is skilled and reliable.

Interviewing farriers

Here are a few essential questions you can ask your potential farriers:

1. Where have you studied, apprenticed or learned your skill?

2. Are you a member of the national farrier organization?

3. In which disciplines are you knowledgeable?

4. How do you handle an uncooperative and difficult horse?

5. Can you provide references?

Things To Know About Your Farrier:

1. Find out of your farrier is punctual.

2. Find out the reputation of the school the farrier got the certification from.

3. Know if the farrier is responsive or good in communication. Determine if the farrier can easily be reached, returns calls, keeps you updated about the work as well as shares essential information about your horse’s condition.

4. Determine if he handles his business transaction and clients professionally.

5. Determine if the farrier can work well with others such as your trainers, groomers, veterinarians and riders.

6. Find out if the farrier understands the athletic level and sport of your horse or knows the right care and shoe wear.

7. Know if the farrier is equipped with all the needed supplies for the tasks.

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Where to Start

Do you find yourself wondering how you are going to keep affording your horse obsession?

If you’re looking at getting a horse, I personally don’t recommend it, you’re going to get emotionally attached and spend way too much money.

But if you are like us, it’s way too late and you are already hooked on horses.  That is why we have created My Horse Supplies.

Your horse is an important member of your family and we understand that.  We often find ourselves referring to ours as “the kids” and anyone who is around horses long enough realises they all have unique personalities.

As a horse owner you are always trying to give the best of everything, but accessing all the products for your horse can be a challenge.

What do you really want to be doing when it comes to your horse?  Riding, training and enjoying your time together?  Or going from store to store searching for products and wasting precious time?

We are dedicated to providing what you need to give your horses the life they deserve as an important member of the family.

The essential joy of being with horses is that it brings us in contact with the rare elements of grace, beauty, spirit, and fire.  ~Sharon Ralls Lemon